Last week I returned from Eastern Poland where, along with fellow photographer, Marek Kosinski, I led two back to back tours. The target species was the European bison and Bialowieza (and it's surrounding meadows and forests) is the only place in Europe where you can see large herds roaming freely. We led a successful tour last year (see HERE for the trip report) and hoped for more of the same on this occasion! Although not as cold and, at the start at least, not as much snow as last year, with Marek's skill and knowledge of this vast area we were able to enjoy photographing them in a variety of situations and conditions. Undoubtedly, the most memorable for me was in the heavy snow as it transforms the landscape and adds real atmosphere to the images.
As last year, the accommodation and home cooking provided by Viera for both breakfast and evening meal was outstanding! Varied and delicious and washed down with a glass (or 2!) of her herb and fruit infused vodka! It's worth returning for her cooking alone!
Thank you to all those that attended...James, Marie-Laure and Ian, Mike and Bea, Chris, Anna, Kevin, Patrick and Jim. It was hard work for some, sometimes, but with your enthusiasm and tenacity, I am sure you have returned with some memorable images.
A day was dedicated to entering the Strictly Protected Area (SPA) of the Bialowieza forest which you can only do so with a licensed guide. Although Bialowieza National Park covers an area of about 105 km.sq; much of this is managed with smaller protected areas within. The finest part is the SPA, a truly spectacular forest covering an area of 57 sq.km. An untouched, primeval forest, the largest and finest of it’s kind in lowland Europe. Massive, several hundred year old oaks, maple, hornbeam, ash and spruce stand 40 metres plus as a result of the nutrient rich soil and their need to reach for the light in this crowded environment. A stunningly beautiful, yet eerie, place where no forest management takes place and the only means of transport within the forest is by horse and cart and a, practically, silent buggy used by the rangers. Where trees fall, they remain and among the tangled vegetation and fallen, decaying trees, wolves, lynx, boar and bison roam. Black storks, lesser-spotted eagles and all 10 species of woodpecker exist within this area, not to mention the endless list of flowers, fungi and insects.
Marek has a marvellous garden bird hide where you can photograph a number of species including these, spotted nutcrackers. They are such great characters and would use their massive, powerful bills to open a hazelnut by wedging it into the crack of a tree.
There were occasions when we were unable to locate the bison and with the light casting a warm glow on the forest, we made the most of the situation.
Occasionally, the conditions were quite difficult to work in but were most definitely worth it!
With half the group, (on my 2nd week) Marek went out looking for bison while myself and 2 others were booked into his garden and forest hide for woodpeckers and the like. Marek, however, put a spanner in the works (in the nicest possible way) by saying to us that the white-tailed eagle hide was empty and would we like to try that instead? I was more than a little keen as was (it has to be said, Kevin!) and when I suggested this to Patrick, he also felt it would be worth a go. So, by 5.30 the following morning, we were settled in the hide, waiting. We did see the eagles. 2 infact, perched in the distant trees, plus ravens and jays but, sadly, they never came down to the bait. It was a real pity but nothing ventured. Kevin, with his bionic eyesight, spotted this gorgeous fox in the distance which gave us a few moments to rattle off a few images.
While half the group were enjoying (as we later found out) a bumper session in Marek's hide, we were out looking for bison which he duly located. And what a herd it was. 60+ animals.
From here, we revisited a forest that had 3 bulls and for the next hour and a half, followed them and, while keeping a very respectful distance, enjoyed them as they relaxed and fed.
My kit bag (Think Tank Airport Acceleration) consisted of 2xNikon D300's, 12-24, 28-105, 70-200 f2.8 and a 200-400 f4 with, occasionally, a 1.4x tele-converter attached. Support was provided by a Manfrotto 055 CX3 carbon fibre tripod fitted with a Markins M10 ball head. I'm not a big fan of those Manfrotto's where, in order to use at ground level, you need to adjust the centre column so it runs parallel to the ground. Far too fiddly for my liking, especially when working in the snow!
From the forest, they entered the clearing providing us with wonderful opportunities to photograph them without any trees obscuring them.
Yellowhammers would fly back and forth, feeding at the bison's feet.
A fantastic end to a great trip. Marek and I will be doing the same tour next February from the 3rd to 8th so, if you are interested in joining me to this amazing region, do get in touch. Alternatively, click HERE to get more information from my website.
