Three weeks ago I returned from Finnish and Norwegian Lapland where I led a Northern Lights and Autumn Colour photo-tour for the third year running. The trip, this year, differed form previous years in that we were forced to start at the Norwegian end due to no flights being available (it's a long story!) for us to start in Finland. It didn't matter, it just meant that the itinerary was reversed.
Our guide, Dirk (roughly pronounced Derek) picked us up at Tromso and drove us the 3 hours to our lakeside accommodation in Kilpisjarvi where we were to be based for the first three nights. To me, this is real Lapland. Stunted growth birch and rocky fells. We visited the same locations as in previous years plus an additional one that saw us walking up alongside a waterfall affording us wonderful views across Norway. I think to really do this walk justice we would have to dedicate a whole day to it and one I may consider doing on subsequent years depending on the fitness level of the group as a whole. Even our guide (a Dutch national who has settled in Finland and speaks Finnish fluently) said it was the finest view he had ever come across in the 12 years he has been a guide there! As I had visited the locations previously I was, of course, very picky as to the subjects I chose to photograph and decided very early on that I was to concentrate, largely, on details with a view to producing a panel once I returned home. I'm glad I did as it helped me focus more intently and work fluidly ignoring the bigger picture. There was so much colour around in the form of birch and aspen, bilberry and willowherb that finding potential subjects proved little problem. It was just a case of making sense out of nature's chaos. To simplify.
As this was not a wildlife trip (with the exception of photographing Siberian jays and possibly reindeer) I left my 200-400 at home and attempted to keep my kit relatively small. There was a good chance, however, of seeing the northern lights so emphasis was put more on fast wide-angles such as the 14mm f/2.8 and 20mm f/2.8.
On one of the afternoons we walked up Sanna Fell. Some of the group reached the summit whereas others, myself included, got about two thirds the way up, side-tracked as we were by the incredible view. Steps take you to the top but like so many hills, the best views are often had off-piste.
Three countries in one image. Rising up in the foreground is Finland's Mala Strict Nature Reserve and in the distant left and right lies Sweden and Norway respectively.
On the fourth day we headed to our second base, Muonio, a drive of, approximately three hours. En-route we stopped at some picturesque rapids and a leg stretch. The forest interior was full of colour and everyone remarked the stark transformation as we drove south from the short birches to the taller versions and spruce. The colour was even more vivid.
The following two and half days in this region were spent at previously visited sites that were popular with past clients and one or two new ones which is inevitable when you do repeated tours. You can never have enough locations up your sleeve, I say!
One location that has always been one of the most popular (and a real favourite of mine too) is a picnic site with an open fire place (including a stock of wood with axe) adjacent to a small lake with a waterfall. The colours, here, at this time, are always amazing. Red leaves of bilberry appear between every rock and cover mossy stumps while the yellows of birch surround the lake. And, as if this wasn't enough to keep everybody occupied, the tamest Siberian jays that will feed from your hand. We had great fun with these baiting them around photogenic perches.
We spent a couple of hours trying to locate reindeer in the nearby national park in areas where in previous years we have had great success. Sadly, however, it wasn't to be and so we made our way to a nearby nature trail which passed through the most stunning old growth forest. This was to be my third visit and each time I find new ways to photograph it.
Throughout the trip (due to cloud cover over much of northern Finland) the northern lights had eluded us but with one night left we were not to be defeated. It was my, and Dirk's, quest to give our clients what they (mainly) came to see and so with aurora and weather forecasts to hand we drove back north along the same road we had come down from our first base near Norway. With a good 60 miles under our belt we stopped and assessed the situation. The sky was clearing from the north but it was still far away so we decided to continue further north. 30 minutes or so later we stopped, again, and on this occasion decided to stay put. The sky was still clearing and at around midnight, in the distance, we could see the northern lights. It was faint but it's surprising what camera's can pick up and everyone was pleased that they had, at last, seen the aurora borealis.
We remained until around 3.30 (we had a flight to catch that afternoon) and with sightings and images under our belts climbed aboard and made our way back. But that wasn't to be the end of it. 45 minutes later as we drove under clear skies, the aurora kicked into action once again. But could we find somewhere to park?! Minutes seeemed like an eternity with everyone peering out of the window but there was no way we could just stop as lorries hurtle along this road and either side are deep ditches. Eventually, we parked up in a layby and saw a wonderful show including the rare corona directly overhead.
An hour later and with the northern lights fading (as well as dawn breaking) we, once again, with smiles and rather bleary eyes headed back for a couple of hours sleep.
A really great group so a big thanks to each and every one of you for making my, and Dirk's job, all the more enjoyable.
