Prague in black and white

Friday 11th November 2022

Up until the pandemic, I would run an annual photography workshop in Prague but for obvious reasons, and more recently due to other commitments, I have, sadly, been unable to do so.

Having visited Prague more times than I can remember (possibly close to 70) over the last 20 years, I desperately wanted to return. I missed it. I have friends there and with my partner, Martina, being Czech it seemed the perfect excuse to revisit. So, we planned that while she spent time with her family in Plzen I would stay in Prague, rent an apartment (penthouse, of course!), and photograph for the next 7 days. Creatively, I find Prague to be incredibly stimulating, and aside from undertaking some personal photography, I wanted to also visit some new locations with a view to rekindling the workshop, perhaps in 2023.

Benches along the embankment and the national theatre in prague illuminated at night in black and white.
Embankment and National Theatre, Prague.

The following images were all made using the Olympus OM-D E-M5 MARK III which was perfect for this kind of work - light and discreet. I took just two lenses, the 9-18 and 14-150 which, together with the body at 414g, came in at 854g, 151g lighter than my usual camera (Nikon D850) body, alone! I would alternate between using a shoulder bag during the day (when a tripod wasn't needed) and a backpack for the evening when I would strap it to the bag. I prefer using a shoulder bag for street work as you don't need to put it on the ground to change lenses. Everything's accessible. I used to use a big old Billingham 455 when I worked as a press/wedding photographer but it put such a strain on my neck and shoulders that I had to give up using it. With the Olympus, however, I can enjoy using one again. By the way, after much research, purchasing, and returning a number of bags I eventually went with one made by Think Tank. I don't know why I didn't go for theirs in the first place as I already own 4 and they're all superbly made. It has a number of features which I like, in particular, it doesn't scream PHOTOGRAPHER and it doesn't have any velcro openings which is very important if you want to remain silent in a church or other noise-sensitive location. In the next 6-12 months I'll most likely write a review once I feel that I've really put it through its paces. First impressions, however, are extremely positive.

Charles bridge west tower and statue, in prague, silhouetted at night in black and white.
Charles Bridge West Tower and statue at dusk, Prague.
Courtyard and steps leading up to charles bridge, in prague, at night illuminated by lamp in black and white.
Courtyard beneath Charles Bridge, Prague.
shadows falling on steps that lead to charles bridge in black and white
Charles Bridge steps, Prague.
Long exposure black and white of charles bridge in prague.
Long exposure of Charles Bridge and pleasure cruiser, Prague.

communist bronze statues in prague in black and white

Designed by sculptor Olbram Zoubek and architects Jan Kerel and Zdeněk Holze, these poignant bronze statues which commemorate the victims of communism were unveiled 20 years ago. it shows a single individual whereby as you look up the steps, the first is whole but then each progressively disintegrates and decays; a symbol of how political prisoners were affected by communism.

communist bronze statues in prague in black and white
Communist statues, Prague.
Silhouetted tree and lamp under charles bridge in prague
Lamp and tree, Prague.
Statue of victory in prague summer palace gardens in black and white.
Statue of Victory, Prague.
Charles bridge and prague castle at dawn in black and white.
Charles Bridge and Castle at dawn, Prague.
Silhouetted triga sculpture on the corner of the roof of the national theatre in prague in black and white.
Triga sculpture, National Theatre, Prague.
Railway lines pf Prague hlavni train station in black and white
Hlavni train station, Prague

Railway lines pf Prague hlavni train station in black and white

Prague's train station made for some very graphic images and so I also returned that same evening to capture the scene at dusk.

Railway lines and train of Prague hlavni train station at night in black and white
Hlavni train station at night, Prague.
long exposure black and white of a tram at night in prague
Tram at night, Prague.
Arch of covered walkway in prague in black and white
Walkway, Prague.
grave stones in the old jewish cemetery in prague in black and white.
Old Jewish Cemetery, Prague

Located in the Jewish Quarter and home to some 12,000 tombstones, Prague's Jewish cemetery is one of the largest of its kind in Europe where for more than 300 years this was the only place where the community who lived within the walled ghetto could lay their dead to rest. As a result, more than 100,000 Jews are buried here, 12 deep, with the earliest being in 1439.

grave stones in the old jewish cemetery in prague in black and white. stones placed on grave stone in the old jewish cemetery in prague in black and white. The act of placing visitation stones is significant in Jewish bereavement practices where mourners visiting the gravesite of a loved one will often place a visiting stone atop the headstone. Often, they would be obtained by the mourner beforehand from some place of significance to the visitor and/or the deceased, or even provided by the cemetery itself - particularly during Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur.

It's remarkable, solemn, and thought-provoking in equal measure. I was there for more than an hour and during that time everyone was hugely respectful; strolling quietly along the paths and reading the inscriptions.

Notes would also sometimes be placed containing wishes.

stones and a note placed on a grave stone in the old jewish cemetery in prague in black and white.

Looking up at a spiraling staircase in prague in black and white.
Staircase, Prague.
rain soaked outdoor cafe table and chairs in black and white in prague
Outdoor cafe after the rain, Prague.
illuminated lamps and path at night in petrin park, prague
Petrin path, Prague.

Throughout my stay, the weather was largely overcast but on my final morning, there were clear skies and little to no wind. Two hours before sunrise, I awoke, caught a tram, and made my way to a site that overlooked the city. It was a beautiful morning and only wish that time could have slowed down and allowed me to enjoy this special moment for longer. One thing's for sure, if conditions allow, I'll be returning - hopefully with a group of photographers!

morning view of prague castle and st vitus cathedral with mist from petrin hill in prague in black and white
Prague Castle and St Vitus Cathedral at dawn.
morning view of prague skyline with mist from petrin hill in prague in black and white
Prague skyline at dawn.
Charles Bridge Tower and the Church of Our Lady before Týn at sunrise, Prague.
morning view of St nicholas church from petrin hill in prague in black and white.
St Nicholas Church, Prague.

morning view framed by a tree of prague castle and st vitus cathedral from petrin hill in prague in black and white

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