Wide-angle lens consideration

Sunday 4th October 2020

Whenever photographers attach a wide-angle lens, many will immediately stop it down (f/11, for example) to obtain maximum depth of field. This is a knee-jerk reaction and something many of us do (or have done) without any real consideration to alternative interpretations. Through shooting with a 28mm lens, for example, (of course, you can use other focal lengths) at maximum aperture and focusing on either the nearest or furthest point it's possible to create photographs with a difference. To try this technique yourself, the next time you're out with your camera take two images - one at f/16 and another at f/4 or f/5.6 and see the difference. I find it works best when really close (as close as the lens will focus) to the subject since the depth of field is then reduced, thereby pronouncing the effect. With autofocus switched off, set the focusing ring close to or at its minimum distance and then, with the camera to your eye, move your body back and forth until the subject comes into focus. This is a technique widely used by macro photographers. Be careful with your focussing here since the zone of sharpness is very small and rather than taking just the one image (and with the camera still to your eye) take several, each time re-focusing by moving yourself - not the focusing ring.

Dew-covered web at sunrise

For both these images, I used a prime 20mm lens shot at f/4. Zooms will work just as well though primes do tend to focus that bit closer. You're still creating a contextual image but see how the attention is more focussed on what is closest to you.

Meadow Barley
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